In 1809 Lord Byron set sail on his two year Grand Tour which ultimately took him to Albania and Greece with his great friend John Cam Hobhouse. He fell in love with the region and the people and whilst on tour he began work on the poem ‘Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage’ which when published on his return shot him to literary stardom. Byron was the ideal Romantic poet, gaining notoriety for his scandalous private life, described by Lady Caroline Lamb as “mad, bad and dangerous to know”. From his letters written whilst touring we gain an insight into the man, his perceptions and the times as well as the excitement he felt on his first journey to the ‘Orient’. As we travel along the coast of Albania and Greece we will visit many places Byron explored and learn of the colourful characters he encountered including the formidable tyrant Ali Pasha of Tepelena.
Byron’s passion for Greece never faltered and in 1823 he returned to the island of Cephalonia, spent £4000 refitting the Greek Fleet and took command of a Greek unit of freedom fighters against the Ottoman Empire. His short but chaotic and fascinating life ended in Messolonghi in 1824 where he died of a fever. Looking at a beautiful region such as this through the eyes of someone who lived two hundred years ago does add an extra dimension to the geography and history and introduces us to more recent events in a corner of Europe with a deeply complicated past.
Our fascinating itinerary combines some ‘must see’ historical wonders together with little known and rarely visited places that are perfectly suited for our vessel. With a maximum of just 95 guests, our trips ashore will be a pleasure as we explore with our Guest Speaker and local guides, adding immeasurably to our knowledge of the region. Ensure you are on deck for our transit of the Corinth Canal which, whilst only built in the 19th century, was conceived as long ago as the 7th century BC, a wonderful start to our cruise and only possible aboard a small ship such as the MS Serenissima.
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Serenissima
The charming MS Serenissima began her career as the Harald Jarl, cruising the Norwegian coastline and fjords. Following an extensive renovation in 2003, the vessel began her life as a classic cruise ship and we have had the vessel on long term charter since 2013. Accommodating just 95 passengers the vessel is perfect for small ship cruising and can navigate into small, remote ports inaccessible to the big cruise ships and appears an impressive sight when moored. With her fleet of Zodiacs she is capable of both destination and expedition cruising.
Itinerary
Day 1 London to Tirana, Albania.
Fly by scheduled flight. Arrive this evening and transfer to our hotel for an overnight stay.
Day 2 Durres.
Enjoy a free morning to explore Tirana at your own pace. Meet for lunch before we drive to the coastal city of Durres which was colonised by the Greeks in 627 BC and still has the remains of a 15,000 seat amphitheatre, the second largest in the Balkans. We will explore the Medieval city and the Archeological Museum before transferring to the MS Serenissima this afternoon. Enjoy welcome drinks and dinner this evening as we sail.
Day 3 Vlore.
Today on a full day tour we will drive inland to Gjirokastra, a charming hillside town which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Byron spent time here and its cobbled streets and fortified Ottoman houses have changed little since his time. We will visit the interesting museum learning about Ali Pasha and Byron’s time in this historic town. After lunch in a local restaurant take a stroll through the 17th century Ottoman Bazaar before heading north to Tepelena. It was here that Byron stayed as guest of Ali Pasha Tepelena, the so-called Lion of Janina. In a letter to his mother Byron provides a description of his host, ending with, ‘He has been a mighty warrior, but is as barbarous as he is successful roasting rebels’. We will see the castle built by Ali Pasha to enclose his palace. Alternatively, enjoy a morning tour to nearby Apollonia and an afternoon at leisure. Apollonia, the ancient city of Illyria reached its zenith around the 4th to 3rd centuries BC when it is believed the population numbered over 70,000.
Day 4 Sarande.
From the port of Sarande we drive to the nearby historic UNESCO site of Butrint. Founded as a Greek colony, a Roman city and Bishopric, it enjoyed a period of prosperity under a Byzantine administration and then the Venetians. Abandoned in the late Middle Ages the site today offers a remarkable glimpse of all its past. It is thanks to the Butrint Foundation, founded by Lord Rothschild and Lord Sainsbury of Preston Candover, that we can appreciate this remarkable site which has over the past 25 years been conserved, preserved and developed far beyond what Byron witnessed. On a guided tour we will explore the Hellenistic temples, promenade and the 4th century BC theatre as well as the Roman public baths, gymnasium and fountains. Further into the site, from the Byzantine era, we see chapels and the large Basilica of St Peter and St Paul, whilst the Venetians are represented by a hill-top watchtower and a small castle with commanding views over the Straits of Corfu.
Day 5 Igoumenista, Greece.
Arriving in Greece we visit the lovely city of Ioannina. The walls of its old fortified city enclose an old quarter that Byron would recognise, spiked with minarets. He spent about a month in the region much taken with the scenery ‘many a mount sublime’. It was in Ionnina that Byron probably first saw himself as the future saviour of Ottoman controlled Greece and began composing Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage. The highlight today will be Ali Pasha’s fortress and from its ramparts we will gaze across the lake just as it had impressed Byron and John Hobhouse in 1809. Visit the Ali Pasha Museum and later walk in this enchanting capital of the Epirus region. We enjoy a local lunch and also plan to stop and visit the remote and impressive Ancient Theatre and Oracle of Dodoni. This area was a site of worship and pilgrimage from 2000 BC until Roman times and was dedicated at one time to the Mother Goddess Gaia and then to Zeus.
Day 6 Argostoli, Cephalonia.
We will spend the day here on the largest of the Ionian islands. From our base in the capital Argostoli, we visit the village of Metaxata where Byron spent four months in 1823 and a statue of remembrance sits proudly in the main square of the village, near where the house he occupied once stood. The devastating earthquake of 1953 destroyed much of the island’s buildings. A drive across the island brings us to the delightful, quiet coastal village of Assos. Choose to take the climb up to the castle of Assos or stroll along the front.
Day 7 Messolonghi.
Situated on the northern shore of the Gulf of Patra, this picturesquely sited small city sits between craggy mountains and Europe’s largest lagoon. In January 1824 Byron journeyed to Messolonghi leading a force of Suliote troops he had funded with the aim of recapturing the Turkish occupied fortress of Lepanto. But his plans were interrupted by the arrival of the Ottoman navy. With the help of the Messolonghi Byron Society, our exploration here will include a visit to the Garden of Heroes. Here, just inside the Gate of Exodus where the Ottoman forces massacred fleeing Greeks sits a prominent statue of Lord Byron.
Day 8 Delphi.
From our berth in Itea we spend the morning exploring the archaeological treasures of the ancient site of Delphi and one of Greece’s most important sites of antiquity. Byron visited in 1809, carving his name on a column in the gymnasium: ‘Yet there I’ve wandered by the vaulted rill Yes! Sighed over Delphi’s long deserted shrine, Where, save that feeble fountain, all is still.’ It was nearly one hundred years after Byron’s visit that serious excavations began revealing some major buildings and structures of the sanctuary of Apollo and of Athena Pronoia including thousands of objects, many of which are housed in the Archaeological Museum. We will see the site of the sacred Delphic Oracle, walk along Delphi’s Sacred Way, visit the Treasury of the Athenians and the 5000 seat theatre dating from the 4th century BC. Spend the afternoon at sea as we sail to Corinth where we moor overnight.
Day 9 Corinth & Corinth Canal.
Byron visited Corinth with his friend Lord Sligo in the summer of 1810. His rhymed, tragic narrative poem, ‘The Siege of Corinth’ was published in 1816 and was inspired by the Ottoman massacre of the Venetian garrison holding the Acrocorinth in 1715. On a morning tour we will visit the extensive remains of ancient Corinth including the Temple of Apollo and from here we can see the hill of Acrocorinth where stood a Medieval fort, the inspiration of the poem. Be on deck in the early afternoon as we navigate the narrow Corinth Canal. Completed in 1893 and only 6.4 kilometres long and 21.5 metres wide, it is only small ships like the MS Serenissima which can now make this journey. We will continue sailing to Lavrion where we arrive this evening and moor overnight.
Day 10 Cape Sounion & Athens.
From the port of Lavrion it is a short drive to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon, one of the major monuments of the Golden Age of Athens. Nearby, see the Temple of Athena and a fortress built in 413 BC during the Peloponnesian War against the Spartans. Whilst spending several months in Athens in 1810-11 Byron visited Sounion; his name is carved on one of the columns and in his poem ‘Isles of Greece’ he mentions Sounion. After our visit either return to the ship for lunch and spend the afternoon at sea sailing to Piraeus. Alternatively take lunch ashore and continue to Athens by road. Here we see Byron’s statue, located next to the National Gardens, whilst in the National Historical museum we can see some of his personal items. Return to the ship this afternoon in Piraeus where we moor overnight.
Day 11 Athens to London.
Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for our scheduled flight to London.
Dates and Prices
4 to 14 October 2022 | ||
---|---|---|
Category | Brochure Price | Special Offer Price |
2 Standard Stateroom | £4595 | £4395 |
3 Classic Stateroom | £4795 | £4595 |
4 Superior Stateroom | £5095 | £4895 |
5 Deluxe Stateroom | £5495 | £5295 |
6 Junior Suite | £5895 | £5695 |
7 Owner’s Suite | £6295 | £6095 |
8 Serenissima Suite | £6395 | £6195 |
10 Standard Single | £5395 | £5195 |
Tour Reference Code: SCSE041022
Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel • Overnight accommodation in Tirana with breakfast • Lunch on day 2 • Nine nights aboard the MS Serenissima on a full board basis • House wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner on board • Noble Caledonia onboard team including Guest Speaker • Gratuities • Transfers • Port taxes.
Not Included: Travel insurance, dinner on day 1.
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Deckplan
Serenissima
The charming MS Serenissima began her career as the Harald Jarl, cruising the Norwegian coastline and fjords. Following an extensive renovation in 2003, the vessel began her life as a classic cruise ship and we have had the vessel on long term charter since 2013. Accommodating just 95 passengers the vessel is perfect for small ship cruising and can navigate into small, remote ports inaccessible to the big cruise ships and appears an impressive sight when moored. With her fleet of Zodiacs she is capable of both destination and expedition cruising.
Video Library
Travelling with You
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Anne Sebba
Anne Sebba is the author of eleven books including the best-selling biography That Woman, a life of Wallis Simpson based on her discovery of 15 unpublished letters locked away in an attic trunk. After that she wrote the award-winning Les Parisiennes: How the Women of Paris Lived, Loved and Died in the 1940’s about a wide variety of women and how they behaved in wartime Paris published in the US, UK, China, France and the Czech Republic and optioned for a multi series TV programme. Her most recent book is Ethel Rosenberg: A Cold War Tragedy which has been optioned for a film by Miramax. She has also written biographies of Jennie Churchill, Mother Teresa, Laura Ashley among others.
Anne gives regular talks about William Bankes (Based on the research for her book The Exiled Collector) covering his friendship with Byron from Cambridge onwards. At the end of Bankes’ Grand Tour he spent time with Byron then living in disgrace in Venice. So when Bankes himself escaped into his final exile he copied Byron and went to Venice. It is almost a parallel story with great insight into the ethos of the day and how unorthodox living was so shocking. Both Bankes and Byron proposed to the same woman Annabella Milbanke. Bankes was refused and she married Byron. She is a fellow of the Royal Society of Literature and a Senior Research Fellow at the Institute of Historical Research.
Anne makes regular television appearances and has presented programmes for BBC Radio 3 and Radio 4 including two about the pianists, Harriet Cohen and Joyce Hatto and has just finished a two year stint as head of Britain’s 10,000 strong Society of Authors. She is a former foreign correspondent as she began her working life at Reuters news agency, the first woman accepted on their graduate trainee scheme. She has also worked for the BBC world services in their Arabic department, although she does not speak a word of Arabic. But she speaks French, German and Russian, which may have helped.
She is a broadcaster and journalist as well as a lecturer for various institutions and schools in the UK and US such as the British Library, Royal Oak, English Speaking Union and the National Trust.
Also of Interest
In the Footsteps of Edward Lear
A journey along the Ionian & Adriatic coasts aboard the MS Serenissima
Serenissima
Itinerary at a glance
- Athens / Corinth Canal / Delphi / Cephalonia / Preveza / Igoumenitsa / Corfu / Sarande / Vlore / Tirana / Kruje
Legends of the Peloponnese
A circumnavigation of the Peloponnese aboard the 50-passenger MS Monet
Monet
Itinerary at a glance
- Athens / Nafplio / Epidaurus / Mycenae / Nemea / Monemvasia / Kalamata / Mystras / Diros Caves / Mani Peninsula / Pylos / Olympia / Ithaca / Itea / Delphi / Corinth / Corinth Canal / Athens
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Speak to one of our advisors on 020 7752 0000